EVERYTHING YOU'VE EVER WANTED TO ASK
ABOUT interior design
AND ARCHITECTURE

A design project is a set of documents that describes how your interior will look and function before renovation begins. It includes layout solutions, furniture placement, finish material selection, lighting and electrical plans, 3D renderings, and construction drawings for the builders. In short, it's the "instruction manual" for everyone on the renovation — from the site foreman to the furniture supplier.

The base package includes: a measurement plan, a layout plan, furniture placement, a ceiling and lighting plan, electrical and plumbing schematics, wall elevations with finishes, a materials specification, and 3D renderings. The extended package additionally includes procurement and design supervision, furniture and decor selection, and support with purchasing.

Even with a clear vision, a project helps you avoid costly mistakes: a misplaced outlet, a door that hits a radiator, or tile that runs short. The project locks in every decision in advance and gives the builders precise instructions — saving both time and money.

A consultation is verbal recommendations with no commitments. A design project is a formal document with drawings, renderings, and specifications that builders can actually work from. Only a full project lets you control the outcome and hold contractors accountable.

The concept is the first stage of design: style, color palette, the mood of the space. It's usually a mood board of references, early sketches, and a description of the idea. The concept confirms that the designer understood you correctly before detailed design work begins.

3D rendering is a photorealistic image of the future interior. It helps you see how materials, furniture, and lighting come together before renovation starts. It's not technically required, but it's highly recommended — it lets you make changes early and avoid disappointment once construction begins.

1) Measurement plan → 2) Briefing and scope of work → 3) Concept → 4) 3D renderings → 5) Construction documentation → 6) Materials and furniture selection → 7) Design supervision. Every stage is approved with the client.

Construction documentation is the technical drawings for the builders: ceiling, floor, electrical, and plumbing plans, wall elevations with dimensions and materials, and detail drawings. Without it, builders work "by eye" — which inevitably leads to mistakes and rework.

3D shows what the interior will look like. Drawings explain how to build it: exact dimensions, height markers, pipe and cable routing. A builder can't work from a picture — missing drawings are the number one cause of disputes with contractors.

Regular site visits from the designer during the renovation. The designer checks that the work matches the project, resolves disputed points, approves material substitutions, and monitors the result. It's what guarantees the renovation turns out exactly as planned.

On average across the market — $25–$75 per sq. ft. The cost depends on the size of the property, the scope of the service package, and the studio's tier. We offer several packages, from a basic concept to a full turnkey project with design supervision. You'll get an exact quote after an initial consultation.

Price reflects the designer's experience, the completeness of the package, and the complexity of the property. A cheap project often means a minimal package without construction drawings — which makes it impossible to run a proper renovation. A professional studio provides a full documentation set and takes responsibility for the result.

The basic formula: square footage multiplied by the price per square foot. The final price is affected by the type of property, layout complexity, whether reconfiguration is needed, and the package chosen. We always lock the price into the contract.

The size and type of property, the level of detail in the project, the number of custom solutions and made-to-order furniture, and whether design supervision is needed. Projects involving load-bearing structures, complex ceilings, or exclusive furniture cost more.

It depends on the finish tier: economy — from $230/sq. ft., comfort — from $280/sq. ft., premium — from $460/sq. ft. and up. We prepare a detailed estimate once we move into design supervision after the project is complete.

Yes. It's important to be upfront about the budget from the start — that lets us set the right priorities: where to invest fully, and where to reasonably save without hurting the visual result.

Choose factory-made furniture instead of custom pieces, use budget-friendly alternatives in less visible areas, and put your budget into one or two key elements while keeping everything else neutral. A good designer always finds the balance between aesthetics and budget.

We charge a fixed monthly rate of roughly $500–$850/month, depending on how often the team visits the site and the time involved. It's an investment that pays for itself: a designer on-site prevents mistakes that would otherwise cost far more to fix.

Roughly $7,500–$11,000, depending on the package and complexity. A private house is more involved than an apartment: you add facades, landscaping, staircases, and multiple bathrooms. Get an exact quote at your first free consultation.

A technical project starts at $25/sq. ft. A drawing package with concept collages runs $50/sq. ft. The full package with drawings and 3D rendering is $75/sq. ft. Procurement service is a flat $500. At ARH STUDIO, the price is locked into the contract — no hidden fees.

For an apartment up to about 850 sq. ft. — 4–8 weeks. For a house or a larger property — 2 to 3 months. We always write checkpoints into the contract so the process stays transparent.

The minimum timeline for a small apartment is about 3–4 weeks, if the client approves each stage quickly. Rushing the design stage often leads to mistakes that are expensive to fix once construction is underway.

An apartment — 3 to 8 months. A house — 6 months to a year or more. A clear project and a reliable contractor significantly cut down the timeline.

Most often it's because there's no project, and decisions get made on the fly. Other causes: delayed deliveries, slow approvals, contractor changes, and unforeseen construction issues. A project plus design supervision minimizes these risks.

Yes, if the client can give feedback and approve each stage within 1–2 days. On our end, we can bring in additional specialists to work in parallel.

Start with the developer walkthrough — document every defect before signing off. Then order a measurement plan through a design studio and start on the concept.

You need to account for the condition of the utilities: old wiring, old pipes. A full rewire and replumb is often required. On the plus side, resale homes typically have higher ceilings and more interesting architecture.

You add the facade, roof, landscaping, and multiple levels to the interior scope. It's important to account for building systems (heating, ventilation, sewage) that a management company would otherwise handle for an apartment.

Built-in storage, transforming furniture, vertical space, a light color palette, and the right lighting. In a small apartment, every inch has to work — this is exactly where professional design pays off the most.

Without walls: different flooring, lighting, furniture placement, and decorative partitions or shelving units. The key rule: every zone needs its own light source.

By reclaiming a hallway or storage closet, splitting a large bedroom, or combining the kitchen with the living room. Any reconfiguration requires approval — we help manage that process.

The architectural section (floor plans), the interior section (all rooms), engineering sections, and a site master plan if needed. A coordinated effort across a full team of specialists.

Our studio's minimum project size is about 650 sq. ft. We're happy to work on individual rooms (living room, bedroom, kitchen, bathroom) as well as full apartments and houses. It's important to account for how that room connects to the rest of the space.

A commercial interior solves business problems: attracting customers, shaping the atmosphere. We design offices, showrooms, restaurants, and hotels with the client's brand and fire-safety requirements in mind.

Hospitality interiors mean heavy foot traffic, durable materials, and compliance with category standards. Atmosphere becomes a competitive advantage.

Start with references: save images to Pinterest. A pattern will gradually emerge — what actually catches your eye. At the first meeting, the designer organizes your preferences and suggests a direction that fits.

Clean lines, no unnecessary details, a neutral or restrained color palette, natural materials, and functionality. It's not one specific direction but a general approach: an interior that feels current and uncluttered.

Minimalism is about maximum simplicity, with empty space as an element in itself. Scandinavian style is warmer: textiles, wood, live plants, while staying clean-lined. Scandinavian style is minimalism with comfort built in.

A deliberate mix of styles, eras, and cultures. The key is that it's not chaos, but harmony through a unified color palette. Good eclectic design reads as personal and intentional.

Yes. It's important to keep one unifying thread running through it: a shared palette, materials, and furniture character.

Warm minimalism, Japandi, neoclassic with modern materials, eclectic and dopamine-driven design. The main trend: individuality as a reflection of personality, rather than following trends.

Coziness doesn't come from the number of objects, but from warm lighting from several sources, natural textures (wood, linen, stone), and soft textiles.

Open space, brick or concrete, metal and wood. In an apartment, the loft effect comes from textured plaster finishes and removing unnecessary partitions.

A modern take on classic design — proportion, symmetry, quality materials, without the formality. The result: an elegant, upscale interior that doesn't feel like a museum.

Ask yourself: how do you want to feel at home? Warm tones or cool ones? Minimal detail or cozy abundance? Based on your answers and references, the designer will suggest a direction that matches your personality.

A project is developed and submitted for approval to your local building or housing authority. After the work is done, an inspector signs off and the changes are recorded on the property's official records. We help develop the project needed for approval.

Yes, if it affects load-bearing structures, wet areas, or the bathroom. Unapproved reconfiguration becomes a problem when you sell the property. Cosmetic renovation doesn't need approval.

Different flooring, a change in ceiling level or pattern, back-to-back furniture placement, decorative partitions, curtains, or shelving units. Every zone should have its own light source.

Place the bed with the headboard against the wall. A built-in wardrobe up to the ceiling frees up floor space compared to a standalone one. Skip bulky nightstands in favor of floating shelves.

Light-colored walls, mirrors, continuous flooring with no seams, vertical accents, and minimal furniture. Good diffused lighting with no dark corners is one of the biggest tricks.

Built-in cabinets in niches, platforms with drawers, storage above door frames, and lofts. The storage system needs to be planned at the design stage — adding it later is much harder.

In a storage closet, a hallway niche, or part of a bedroom. The minimum comfortable size is around 30 sq. ft. With the right design, even 20 sq. ft. can hold more than a standard closet.

Removing a wall requires approval. Zoning is done through separate scenarios: a dining area, a sofa grouping, and a cooking zone. Make sure to plan for a powerful range hood — an open kitchen can otherwise disrupt the relaxation zone.

It significantly improves comfort for a household of three or more. Sometimes a second bathroom can fit into a storage closet — the key is routing the plumbing and getting wet-area approvals in advance.

Zones for sleeping, studying, play, and storage. Choose furniture your child can grow into. It's better to build a solid base and change the decor later — a child's needs will shift again in a few years.

Check their portfolio of completed projects. Avoid verbal agreements and cash payments with no paperwork.

Strongly recommended. Without a designer, workers end up making small decisions based on their own taste — and the result doesn't match the plan. Design supervision is what protects your project.

Checking that the work meets building code and matches the project: proper standards, flat surfaces, clean seams. Unlike design supervision, this is a separate engineering service.

Above all: don't start a renovation without an approved project. Get every agreement in writing, approve the estimate before work starts, and order materials with a 10–15% buffer.

Compare multiple estimates. Choose materials before work begins. Don't change decisions once construction has started — every change costs money.

Document any deviations with photos, and contact the designer or the site inspector. Resolve disputes in writing — citing the contract and the project.

Demolition → reconfiguration → rough-in work (electrical, plumbing, subfloor) → wall and ceiling leveling → finish work → door installation → final finishes → furniture and decor.

Rough-in work builds the foundation: subfloor, plastering, electrical. You won't see it in the finished interior, but everything else depends on its quality. Finish work is the final layer: tile, hardwood flooring, paint.

The process: develop the project → submit it to the local housing authority → get approval → complete the work → have it signed off by an inspector.

Technically, yes. But without a project, people end up spending more on rework. The project is insurance against costly mistakes, especially with electrical, plumbing, and layout.

Natural stone and high-quality imitations, microcement, wood paneling, textured plaster, and matte finishes instead of glossy. In tile, it's large-format pieces and natural textures.

Consider traffic, kids and pets, budget, and style. Hardwood is warm and long-lasting. Engineered wood is more stable and works with radiant floor heating. Porcelain tile holds up well in wet areas.

Hardwood is natural wood — it can be refinished and lasts decades. Laminate is cheaper and simpler, but can't be restored. If natural materials matter to you, go hardwood. If you want something practical and affordable, go with class-33 laminate.

Floor slip resistance — a rating of R10 or higher. Water absorption — no more than 3%. Larger tiles visually expand the space. Matte finishes hide fingerprints.

Water-based acrylic paints — eco-friendly, low odor, quick-drying. For bedrooms — matte. For kitchens and bathrooms — satin or semi-gloss. Order with a 10% buffer.

Porcelain tile, PVC-laminated MDF (furniture fronts), quartz composite (countertops), frosted glass (partitions), and acrylic paint (walls).

A decorative finish with pronounced texture: concrete-look, stone-look, or Venetian plaster. Used as an accent wall in a living room or bedroom. Requires professional application.

Matte — versatile, no glare. Glossy — visually raises ceiling height. PVC film is cheaper; fabric membrane breathes and won't sag with temperature swings.

MDF with eco-veneer — practical and affordable. For a higher-end look — natural veneer or solid wood. Hidden, flush-to-wall doors create a minimalist effect.

A thin-layer coating that requires no demolition, with a seamless look. Used on floors, walls, countertops, and shower areas. Requires sealing. Popular in minimalist and loft interiors.

The layered-lighting rule: ambient, accent, and task lighting in every room. Every source should be on its own switch or dimmer.

A three-layer system: ambient diffused light, accent lighting (zones, artwork), and decorative lighting (floor lamps, sconces, niche lighting). This approach lets you create different lighting scenes.

Not in a single row down the center. Along the perimeter, set back 24–32 inches from the wall, spaced 24–32 inches apart. Fixtures should light the work areas, not the center of the room.

Chandelier diameter (in inches) ≈ the room's length plus width (in feet). For ceilings under about 9 ft. — flat-mount fixtures. A single fixture doesn't replace a layered lighting system.

Warm (around 2700K) — bedroom, living room. Neutral (3000–3500K) — kitchen, bathroom, home office. Cool light (5000K+) feels tiring in living spaces.

LED strips (around 2700–3000K), tucked into a channel behind the edge. You should only see the light, not the source. For accent lighting on individual objects, use small recessed spotlights.

Function first, then scale. Fewer, better pieces beat more, cheaper ones. A handful of good pieces will always look better than a room packed with cheap furniture.

The best strategy: built-in storage — custom-made; upholstered furniture and decor — factory-made. Custom furniture gives you exact dimensions and makes the most of your space.

A designer knows the market and can point you to less obvious options — manufacturers with a genuinely good balance of price and quality.

Decor should support the idea, not compete with it. The rule of odd numbers: objects on a shelf look best grouped in threes or fives. Vary the heights, textures, and materials.

Curtains aren't just decor — they're functional too: privacy, sun protection, acoustics. Long, solid-color, floor-to-ceiling drapes are especially popular — they add height and a finished look.

A rug ties a furniture grouping together: the front legs of the sofa and chairs should sit on the rug. Go neutral in a bold interior, and bold in a neutral one. Wool and other natural fibers last a long time.

Keep walkways at least 32 inches wide. Don't push furniture flush against every wall. Keeping furniture scale consistent creates a sense of order and openness.

Look at the portfolio: completed projects, not just renderings. Read real reviews. Pay attention to how comfortable the communication feels — the designer will be your partner for months.

Education, experience, quality of portfolio, and the ability to listen. Be cautious if a designer offers a finished solution right away, without a proper briefing.

Can I see completed projects? Who will actually be running my project? What's included in the package? How does the approval process work, and what do revisions cost?

A floor plan or measurement plan, a rough budget, a wish list, and references. If you don't live alone, align on preferences with your household ahead of time.

The best way is to show examples, not describe them in words. Collect 20–30 images on Pinterest. Also describe how you actually live: your daily routine, your habits.

Typically, 1–2 concept directions. A pile of options is a source of confusion, not a sign of professionalism.

Be honest and specific: "too dark," "I want it warmer," rather than just "I don't like it." A designer needs concrete feedback to zero in on your taste.

Yes, that's a fully workable format. Most stages happen online. We work with clients across many different cities and countries.

A document that records all of the client's preferences. It's signed by both sides and becomes the basis for the project — protecting both the client and the designer.

The contract covers: the scope of services, cost, timeline, the approval process, and each party's responsibilities. Read carefully to see exactly what's included in the base price.

Yes, that's the client's right. Stages that have already been paid for aren't refunded. If a misunderstanding comes up, it's best to try talking it through first.

A studio is a full team: designer, architect, visualizer, project manager. More resources, a more structured process, and shared accountability for the result.

A site plan, floor plans, facades from every side, sections, and structural and engineering sections. Required to obtain a building permit.

An architect handles structure, facades, and building systems. A designer handles style, finishes, furniture. ARH STUDIO combines both disciplines — a single vision from the facade down to the decor.

Without a project, there's no way to oversee the builders or guarantee structural integrity. We always recommend designing the project — it's insurance against costly construction mistakes.

Base it on the character of the site, your lifestyle, and your budget. A good architect will help you find a style you won't get tired of in five years.

Drawings and renderings of the exterior from every side: materials, opening dimensions, decorative elements, and color scheme.

Legalization happens through the courts or through an administrative process. You'll need a technical survey from a licensed surveyor. Every case is different — start with a consultation.

A stock plan almost always needs to be adapted to the site, the terrain, and the soil. An architect turns a generic plan into "your" plan and helps prevent construction mistakes.